3 Bars Black

Yesterday was Deb's 48th birthday. For her it was probably not very remarkable as we have saved the celebration and gift giving until the 20th when we will combine the party with Rebecca's birthday. But for me it was a major milestone in my climbing achievements. I finally red pointed (climbed it on lead without falling or grabbing the gear) the climb named "Three Bars Black" at Chuckawalla! I have been trying to climb that line for the last 2 1/2 years. The climb is rated 5.13b and is a local test piece for the best climbers. Since coming home from Thailand and having a great trip over there climbing many days in a row I have maintained my climbing endurance and strength. I have recruited several people to spend time belaying me as I worked through the various sections of the climb that were difficult. Finally a tip by my friend Todd (a 5.14 climber) on how to do the final "dyno" (leap from hold to hold usually involving having your feet swing in the air) move at the crux helped me solve the sequence. All I needed to do was link all of the sections on one flawless push. That moment occurred yesterday with my daughter Angie on belay. My first attempt of the day had me falling at the dyno. So close! I then rested for about 20 minutes, basking in the sun and chatting with Angie before I set off again. The temperature was perfect (about 53 degrees) and the wall was still shaded and with little wind. Physically I felt great. This time as I climbed through the lower sections of the climb I felt strong and the holds seemed a bit bigger than usual and I hit every hold and foot smear just right. When I made the dyno move my heart was pounding from excitement as much as exertion. My hand stuck on the hold and I paused slightly as I gathered the rest of my body in to complete the move and get to a more secure stance. From there it was patience and fighting the pump in my forearms as I moved through the less difficult yet tricky climbing to the chains. It is hard to describe the feeling at that moment. I was happy, relieved, and amazed all at the same time. I was glad to be able to share the moment with Angie. It had been my goal to red point this climb before I turned 50 years old. I now I did it! (Photo was taken during a working session and not the final redpoint)